FRANCE, part 3

6.24.2007

I went to mass this morning at the Cathédral de Notre Dame des Doms, the church where 7 (or 9, if you count 2 during the schism) popes were “pope-d” in the 14th century. It was certainly awe-inspiring to attend mass where so much history has taken place. Also, I was able to follow and understand the service more easily today, so that was cool.
In the afternoon, I saw an excellent movie that was part of the Avignon Film Festival. It was called Fast Food Nation and was directed by American Richard Linklater. While only paying 2 euros for a ticket made me pretty excited, I became even more so when Linklater walked into the theatre and did a short interview before the showing! This film won him the Prix Chateau-Neuf de Pape, for which he will receive one case of wine for the next 12 years. He seemed pleased with his prize, as well he should be! Linklater wrote the screenplay based on a non-fiction book of, I think, the same title. However, the film is not a documentary. He took the facts from the book and added a story line, making it, in my opinion, a wonderful blend of art and science. While the movie was difficult to watch at times, it addressed a complex web of several political, economical, and social issues in a poignant and powerful manner. I HIGHLY recommend this film!
Upon viewing Fast Food Nation my interest in food and nutrition and its universal consequences was rekindled. Additionally, it reaffirmed my vegetarian habits. (I’m not a real “vegetarian,” as I eat meat if I know it has been raised without antibiotics, growth hormones, and other such lovely additives.) For the remainder of the day, I have been reflecting on the immense impact of our eating choices. I am certainly fascinated by this realm. I believe that many problems in our current society are influenced, both directly and indirectly, by what we chose to consume. I am hopeful that by correcting the numerous injustices found in the production of our food, other social, political, and economical wrongs will simultaneously be corrected. It is fitting, I think, that we must “return to our roots” to solve the numerous and complex inequalities that exist in our world today.

6.25.2007

On my way to school this morning, I stopped by the “marchet” (market) and picked up some lettuce, tomatoes, and walnuts to make myself a salad for lunch. That, with some chèvre melted onto crusts of bread, made for a delectable—not to mention cheap—meal. When I sat down with my salad and bread, the other students were quite impressed that I had actually made my own lunch. Their idea of “making” lunches is going to the “Shopi” (like a Cub Foods or Safeway) and buying microwave meals, yogurt, maybe a pre-made sandwich, etc. But what can I say? I take pleasure in eating well and eating what tastes good! The ironic part is that it is very simple to prepare a meal such as mine and less expensive, too.
This morning was a long morning indeed: two hours of theatre class, followed directly by two hours of history class. In the afternoon, my eyes needed some relief from staring at a computer screen, so I went to a café and sipped on an iced coffee while reading our first play. I felt very “French!” Nothing eventful occurred for the rest of the day; I returned to the apartment, Françoise made dinner, and I worked most of the evening.

6.26.2007
While walking to class this morning, I thought to myself, “Yes, I could do this. I could move to France. I could live here.” Then came another four-straight-hours of class and moving to France was the last thing I wanted to do. Next week I have to give oral presentations for both of my classes. Thinking about that made me a little stressed out, so I stayed at the Institute most of the afternoon and tried to study; however, I couldn’t concentrate. I went for a brief walk through town and bought a ticket to go see Le Roi Lear (King Lear) in a couple of weeks at the Palais des Papes. Then I had some ice cream, and things began to look up (funny how that works). For dinner, Françoise made ratatouille, a sort of vegetable stew with eggplant, zucchini, and tomatoes. It was most excellent.

6.27.2007

Today should have been a good day because I only had class for two hours. Before leaving the Institute for the day, I had plans to talk to my family via Skype, an online, computer-to-computer calling system. However, after an hour of trying, we were unable to connect. Whether it was because of a glitch in the program or because of user error, I’m not sure, but nothing makes me more frustrated than technology that fails to work! I called home using a calling card instead, but nobody answered. Then I called my mum’s cell and got her voice mail. Finally, I got through to my dad. He was in the middle of a meeting but could tell that I was flustered. He gave me his “be patient with yourself, remember to not work too hard, and have some fun” pep talks with a “many fears are born of fatigue and loneliness” thrown in to boot. I am so grateful for his ability to cheer me up at times like this!
I know he is right, but I have been feeling so behind lately. I am not learning the language as quickly as I would like. Also, I feel disadvantaged in my classes because I know very little about historical events/places/people (thanks to my wonderful history teachers in high school…), and both classes rely heavily on this area of knowledge. I feel as though every free moment I have, I should be studying. However, I also know that I can learn a great deal simply by being here. I don’t necessarily have to take classes to learn. I guess I just needed to hear someone else tell me this, though.
Today began “les soldes” (the sales) throughout the city. It was utter chaos! You would have thought it was the day after Thanksgiving n the U.S. I accompanied some of the girls to a few stores, but for some reason I did not have the urge to buy anything—a rare occurrence for me, indeed! I did see a few things that caught my fancy, and I do have some “spending money” that Gramps so kindly slipped to me before I left. But I have trouble justifying buying more “stuff” that I don’t really need.
Also, when I talked to dad today, he said he was really enjoying reading what I have posted. He encouraged me to keep writing, so writing I am…

6.28.2007

MDPJ: Merci, Dieu, pour jeudi. (Thank God for Thursdays.) I slept in for an extra hour this morning, and felt much better when I got up. History didn’t start until 11 am, so I hung around the apartment and did a little reading. Françoise loaned me an old History text-book from when her daughter was in elementary school. It is much easier to read, and it fills in some of the voids. For example, before this morning, I knew absolutely nothing about the Algerian War. If I had heard of it, I obviously did not take note of it. I also learned a bit about the war of decolonization in Vietnam; no wonder they have such strong French influences there! I feel rather ignorant never having learned about these events before.
After classes today, I suggested that we go out to a café and have some drinks, as I didn’t feel like once again returning to Françoise’s and doing homework. When I said “drinks,” I was thinking a nice glass of wine, but I apparently everyone else was thinking “Coca light.” I chuckled to myself, though, when they paid a third more for their sodas than I did for my refreshing glass of white wine. : )
Françoise had another late dinner meeting this evening, so I ate by myself. Then I turned on the télé for a bit and watched a ridiculous French movie from the 70’s that was comparable to a sort of Monty Python, I suppose. It was so over-the-top and far-fetched that I was laughing out loud in an empty house!

6.29.2007

I learned two very interesting facts today: 1) instead of saying, “Break a leg,” the French say, “Merde!” before going on stage; 2) denim was first made in Nîmes, France. They called the early fabric “toile de Nîmes,” so the jeans material that we so often find ourselves sporting today is “de Nîmes” – “denim!”
This morning, I toured the backstage area of the Palais du Papes theatre. It was arranged through our theatre class, so we got a private tour of the stage, the open-air auditorium, the underground tunnels and passageways, and even the dressing rooms! It was “incroyable!” I was so in my element; surrounding me were teams of people running around with bundles of lumber, painting set pieces, erecting flats, hanging lights, and loading in the first production of the festival. While the Palais is only one venue, it is the largest, seating 2000 people, and it is where the whole festival began 61 years ago. The stage was massive. I cannot imagine performing on it, let alone trying to design/stage a production on it. Behind the stage is one of the huge walls of the Palais, itself, which they have used in several productions directing actors to speak from the high windows, etc. Our guide told us about one particular play in which a “lake” was built on the stage. Someone falls in and “drowns” in the lake, which was really a large pool they had built underneath the stage. When the actress fell, there was a scuba diver awaiting her who helped her get out, a.s.a.p., so she could dry off and “miraculously” reappear on stage. Amazing.
This afternoon, I accompanied the Archeology and Architecture class to their visit to the Pont du Gard. While I couldn’t tell you anymore about the ancient Roman aqueduct than before I went, I did take some really good pictures! I had a pleasant and relaxing afternoon, sitting in the shade, sipping a glass of wine, and taking in the moment.

6.30.2007

This morning, I woke up with what looked like a giant zit when, in reality, a mosquito just kissed me on the cheek in my sleep. I am flattered—really, Mr. Mosquito—but you shouldn’t have.
I met the other students for our second “excursion” in Provence. Our destination today was Baux-de-Provence, an ancient village that is site to the remains of a medieval chateau. On our way there, we stopped at “un cave” and had a wine-tasting. Because of the group’s size, we only tasted one rosé that was rather sweet and dry. The cave was actually underground and, thus, naturally chilled the wine, but it also made for a dark and eerie atmosphere. It was a cool experience, but I think I had more fun wine-tasting with dad. He’s never going to let me forget that I just said that.
Afterwards, we visited La Cathédrale des Images. I’m at a loss as to how to explain this. It’s a giant, man-made cave (i.e., no stalactites/stalagmites/spelunking) in which images are projected onto all the walls and floor. The theme this year is Venice, so all the projections were of the Piazza San Marco, the gondolas and canals, Carnival festivities, etc. I didn’t quite know what to think at first. Who in their right mind came up with this idea?! Upon seeing the rotating images depicted so clearly around me, however, I decided it was pretty wicked-awesome. ; ) After lunch at a little restaurant in St. Remy, we finally arrived at Baux-de-Provence. Climbing the chateau reminded me of climbing Harney Peak—the jagged rocks, the sketchy railings, the hot and exhausting hike—but when I got to the top, it was completely worth it. The vista was beautiful; full of olive groves; the same landscapes that Van Gough made famous in his paintings. I can understand why he painted so much, even if he was a loony.
When we returned to Avignon, I had dinner with Françoise. Some of the other students where going to call me after they had finished eating so we could all meet somewhere and go out. Nine o’clock rolled around and I had yet to hear from them. I was ready to go out by myself and just take a walk, but at the last minute, my “don’t be stupid” sensor kicked in, and I stayed in. Instead, I watched Singin’ in the Rain (with French subtitles, of course) and was swept away by the world of Gene Kelly. Lame, I know. But it’s one of my favorite movies, and I love the dancing (even though I would have rather been dancing myself). I feel as though I am missing out on a whole new experience because I am overly cautious. I know that learning involves taking risks and pushing oneself outside of one’s comfort zone, but at the same time, I don’t want to end up doing something I would regret. No regrets. But am I going to end up regretting not taking advantage of these chances? Shoot. Today makes one month until I board the plane to return home.

7.1.2007

After mass this morning at la Cathéadrale de Notre Dame des Doms, I visited the huge, fresh market. It was fun to see all the vendors with their crisp produce, giant hunks of meat, bizarre looking fish, savory pastries, and fresh bread. I was very jealous that we do not have anything like this in SD. I picked up some provisions for my lunches this week (an avocado, some hummus, and some pine nuts), and then I bought a “pain aux raisins” which I ate with a café (café in France = a shot of espresso) while reading for my classes.
In the afternoon, Françoise took me and another student who lives near us to La Fontaine de Vaucluse. Vaucluse is the name of the départment (like a county) of Avignon, so I imagined we would be going to some little nearby fountain. As it turns out, La Fontaine de Vaucluse is a little village about 30 minutes from Avignon. The fontaine is no “fountain,” but really a huge spring in this little village. The spring is unique in that scientists have been studying it for the past 50 years, and they’ve yet to figure out from whence it comes. Apparently, there hasn’t been much rain this year (stupid global warming…), so the water level was very low. Nonetheless, it was a beautiful area to “faire une prommenade.” Along the river, there was a little artisan community where they make hand-made paper. The current turns the water-wheel, which powers the ancient machine that creates the paper pulp. Then, using a screen and a frame, they make the paper, one sheet at a time. I bet mum would have enjoyed seeing it.