5.31.2008

Dharmasala (4)

5.31.08

We got on the bus yesterday at "o'dark-thirty," as popsicle would say, and 15 hours later, we arrived in Dharmasala. It wasn't the smoothest drive in the world, but I was feeling a little better. Still, Indian food was the last thing I wanted to eat. The night before, I found some crackers and chocolate chip cookies, so these sustained me during our long journey. The drive was far from smooth, but it was interesting to see India outside of Delhi: factories, rice fields, condos, grass huts, billboards, the smallest horses I've ever seen, school buses (but they were empty...maybe it was too early, still?), and lots and lots of marijuana growing on the side of the road.

Then we came to the mountains. Breath taking. The drive was like 3-hours of the crazy driver up Mount Tabor in Israel, like a 3rd world version of the road from Nice to Monaco, like taking a bus up the narrow roads in Haute de Cagne Sur Mer. Navigating through passages that one might think were impossible to fit through, I decided not to look up and read my Dalai Lama book, instead. (I'm still way behind on my reading...). Then the road became even rougher: pot-holes, one-lane roads with two-way traffic, and some roads unpaved. Our master bus driver skillfully got us to our destination, though, with only a few near death experiences, and the vistas were gorgeous. They looked like the default desktop backgrounds on your computer. ; )

Upon arrival at our hotel, the Hotel Surya, I once again was feeling like shit. I had some rice for dinner, feeling like I was once again a 13-year old fickle eater in China, and went straight away to bed. The Hotel Surya is far from The Park. One of the rooms was infested with ants (but they got upgraded to a suite), you have to be half-smart to flush the toilets, and the beds smell like rubber. The mattresses, like I remember in China, are super stiff. This was quite welcome for me, though, because my back was of wack, and I slept the best sleep since coming to India.

This morning, I awoke feeling much better. I am afraid to get sick again, though, so I have been sticking to bland, inauthentic meals such as toast, fruit, crackers, and rice. Food is one of my favorite parts of traveling, but with two weeks left, my antibiotics gone, and an aversion to Indian food, I have been going "picky foreigner style." I see all these people around me with so little, and I think, "Yea, I can do without a lot of the extra stuff in my daily life." But when I was sick, I wanted to be on the next flight home, back to the comforts of home and those who love me. Ahh! It's a quandary.

This morning, we met with the Prime Minister of the Tibetan Government in Exile. He was a little, old Buddhist monk. He spoke with a calm and deliberate voice, but his eyes were sad. "We are living on a day-to-day basis." I asked him what gives him hope, and he said two things: First, what Tibetans are asking for is nothing unreasonable. Rather, it is based in truth and justice. Secondly, he was assured that the nonviolent movement will overcome violence in the end. Later in the afternoon, we met with one of the workers at the Tibetan Center for Human Rights. He spoke a lot about the need for a dialogue between Tibetan and Chinese leaders, as well as the need for the media to go TO Tibet. There is a lot going on there that we do not know about because word never gets out.

Dharmasala is gorgeous. I am glad to be in the mountains, away from the hustle and bustle of Delhi. The mountain air is also very welcome. Interestingly, there are a lot more Western tourists here than I saw in Delhi. Lots of backpackers and hippy types, looking for enlightenment, I'm sure. (Sorry, I was being cynical again. I know, I know, "Cynicism is too easy." Thank you, father.)

Well, I best close for now. I miss you terribly! Two more weeks. Goodness, that seems like a long time...

5.29.2008

New Delhi (3)

5.29.08

After leaving the Internet cafe last night, I stopped at the restaurant we had been to the night before to get a pizza to go, figuring I'd eat half for dinner and the other half for lunch today on the train. While I was waiting, I noticed a sign on the wall that said, "Absolutely no one under the age of 25 may consume alcohol." Oops. I guess the US doesn't have the highest drinking age, after all. By the time I got back to the hotel, eating pizza was the last thing I wanted to do, so I packed up my bags and went to bed early. I woke up in the middle of the night feeling terrible. Afraid to be sick on the train, I popped an antibiotic and laid awake for the next few hours, wishing I could just fall asleep. Our 3am wake up call came too soon, and we loaded up on the bus. I was not the only one feeling ill, as it turns out. My roommate was sick the day before, and another girl looked as bad as I felt.

When we got to the train station, I was feeling a little better. Our train was delayed, so we sat and waited. The train station. The largest rats I've ever seen, feasting on a smorgasbord of garbage. The smell. The putrid smell of excrement. The smell of cannabis. The smell of sweaty, hot, India. Extreme fatigue started setting in, and tears started welling up in my eyes. Oh, how I longed for my bed. My bed, some peanut butter, and a tight hug. I pulled out the i.pod, despite the strange looks, and listened to my pick-me-up song, "End of the Line" by Bob Dylan. Thank God for music. Thank God. Ironically, the next song that played on shuffle was Tom Petty's "American Girl." How true, how true! I am a very fortunate American girl, indeed, and I miss it.

As it turned out, our train was delayed because the Gujjars, a tribe that is not yet recognized by the Indian government, were protesting--civil disobedience--how appropriate. The train we were supposed to take was rerouted on the way to Delhi to avoid the protests, but there was no telling when it would arrive. So, we returned to our hotel--the best news I had heard all day! We had to be ready to leave at a moment's notice, so we couldn't wander too far. This wasn't a problem for me, though, since I was so incredibly grateful to have some time to rest in the comfort of a bed.

The day passed, and still no news of our train. Finally, we heard it was coming at 7 pm. Rather than take the train at night, though, our professors decided we will be taking a bus tomorrow. It will be a long drive, and we must leave at 5am. Nonetheless, I am so happy that I didn't have to spend today sick on a train!

5.28.2008

New Delhi (2)

5.28.08

Today was Gandhi day. Randall, you would have loved it. ;) Our first stop this morning was at the Raj Ghat, a national monument where Gandhi was cremated. Then we returned to the Gandhi Peace Foundation for another lecture and lunch. In the afternoon, we visited the Gandhi Smriti, where he spent his last 100-some days and was ultimately assassinated, and the National Gandhi Museum. He was a great man, and I've enjoyed studying him, but I'm a little Gandhi-ed out, to be honest.

Fortunately, we are moving on the the Dalai Lama tomorrow! We are boarding a train at 5am to the mountains where we will then transfer to car to make our way up to the little Tibetan refuge village of Dharmasala. I'm looking forward to it, but all this go-go-go is starting to take a toll on me. Hopefully we will have a little more time to ourselves in Dharmasala. There is still all this reading that I'm supposed to do, but I have a VERY hard time motivating myself to sit in my room and read about India when I could be out EXPERIENCING it. I hate the "study" part of study abroad trips.

I finally found an Internet cafe at which I've been able to spend a decent amount of time writing. New Delhi is unlike any big city I've ever visited. For one, there are very few tall buildings. Most of the city is relatively flat. Also, it is a strange paradox between the fancy billboards for UCB, America's Next Top Model, and Rolex watches and the poor, simple people that fill the streets. I don't think there is such thing as a mall, and I highly doubt anyone has a TV with cable in their tarp tents. My professor told me, "In America, you can kiss anywhere in the streets and pee nowhere. In India, you can pee anywhere, and kiss nowhere." While I'm loving this incredible experience, I'm beginning to like America more and more... ;)

Well, I best close for now. It is getting dark out, and I have to navigate my way back through the twisted streets to the hotel. I miss all of you dearly, and I hope to write again soon from Dharmasala. Peace and love. ~Kels

5.27.2008

New Delhi (1)

5.27.08

This is the first time I've been able to get Internet access. Since arriving in New Delhi on Sunday night after a 15-hour flight, we have been busy, busy, busy!

Friday night, my last night in the US, I moved all my belongings that I was leaving while I'm away (sheets, shorts, shoes, etc.) to store at a friend's house. I got a few hours' sleep on the "chastity couch," so named because you can do little more than sleep on it, had breakfast at Brewberry's, checked out of my room, and caught Bus 74 to the train en route to the airport. We flew from MSP to Chicago, and from Chicago straight to New Delhi--a 14-15 hour flight on which, again, I got very little sleep. ;) I had a window seat, though, and while it was too dark to see the polar ice caps as we flew over them, I watched the sun set over Canada, and saw the Url mountains from high above. It was pretty sweet.

We arrived in New Delhi at 8:00 pm, Sunday night. After picking up our baggage, clearing immigration, and exchanging some money, we walked outside to be greeted with a "traditional welcoming" of drums, a crazy horn, and dancing. It was outrageous! We received long strings of marigolds around our necks, looked ever so touristy, and got on a bus with our tour guide--an Indian with a really long name, so we just call him "Lee." While in Delhi, we have posh accommodations at a swanky hotel, The Park Hotel, because the hotel we were originally going to stay in is undergoing renovations. Before finding our rooms to get some much welcomed sleep, we were given mango juice to drink and crushed rose-petal dots on our foreheads. I felt very exotic, indeed.

My roommate is a very quiet, "normal" girl, and this is her first time out of the US. I feel a little jaded because a lot of what is new and exciting for her is old hat for me. Don't get me wrong--there are lots of things on this trip that are new for me too. Anyhoo, it turns out that she has a horrible allergy to almonds! (I had a close call with a good friend in France last summer who accidentally ate an almond and nearly stopped breathing.) After last summer, I didn't leave the country without some Benadryl, and I now carry a wicked epi-pen in my sac. I just hope I don't have to use it.

The next morning, I woke up on my own at 7am. Breakfast was in our hotel. I had some muesli and yogurt, coffee, and a croissant, but wanting to break out of my euro-american mold, I also tried a crepe-looking dish, which I later found out was a dosa, a very thin rice pancake that had golden potatoes inside. It was a little odd for breakfast, but delicious nonetheless. By the time we got on the bus, it was raining torrents. Despite the knee-deep water in parts, the streets were still full of bicycles, motorcycles, compact cars, buses, and large trucks. (The traffic is crazy--people drive British style, on the left, and according to our guide, one needs three things to drive in Delhi: good brakes, a good horn, and good luck!)

Our first stop was the "Eiffel Tower of India," a large stone pillar called Qutab Minar. The rain subsided and we went to lunch at a little restaurant where we ate naan (a flat bread), chicken masala, paneer (a cottage cheese made from buffalo milk) and vegetables, a lentil dish, and a small scoop of rich vanilla ice cream for dessert, also made from buffalo's milk. After that filling lunch, I was ready for a nap, but there was much more in store for the day.

Next up was the Humayun Tomb, a Muslim tomb built for the second Mughal emperor. The poor guy ruled in exile, and the day after he returned to the empire, he threw a wild party, ODed on opium, and tripped down the stairs, realizing an instant death. Karma bites. Later in the afternoon, we did a little shopping. Inspired by my great-grandmother who bought some jewelry which my mum has today on a train trip across the Orient, I purchased a few pieces in hopes that my great-grandchildren will think their as cool as I do some day. ; )

Our final adventure for the afternoon was a rickshaw ride through Old Delhi. Though it was not my first time in these crazy bicycle carts, I was very excited because this was the "must do in Delhi" according to the Mortimers. The smells were potent and the streets crowded, but fortunately, our fearless driver averted most of the pot-holes and potential collisions. Then we visited Jama Masjid, one of the largest mosques in India. As with many holy places, we had to take our shoes off; it's kind of funny seeing everyone walking around barefoot. Once inside, we were bombarded with Indians wanting to take our photographs. This had been happening most of the day at the monuments which we visited; I guess a group of 20 fair-skinned women really do stand out... I wasn't as shocked as most of the other ladies, though, because the exact same thing happened to Aish and I when we were in China, almost 8 years ago (Wow, how time flies!).

In the evenings, we have some "free time," but I do not feel comfortable walking alone outside of our hotel after dark. Most of the other girls just hang out in their rooms, doing the required readings (Give me a break! You can read when we're in the US.), sleeping, etc. "360-degree vision," my dad says, but I stand out like an apple in a cherry tree. It frustrates me to no end, and I miss traveling with my family or my guy friends--so much for being an "independent woman."

Our second day in India began by visiting the Gandhi Peace Foundation where we had a couple lectures in the morning, followed by lunch at the institute. I have been learning quite a bit about Hinduism, and I find it fascinating how accepting they are of other religions. "Each must find her own path." This whole religious pluralism idea is starting to make a lot of sense.

We paid a visit to the National Museum, full of ancient artifacts and historic sculptures. It was trying to pay attention, though (especially with the Indian accents), because the fatigue was finally catching up to me. I felt a little guilty that I wasn't fully appreciating the history that was at my fingertips. Our last stop for the day was at the Hindu temple Birla Mandir. I was completely exhausted by this point, and the heat didn't help. We had a few minutes to our selves, though, and I sat in front of some Hindu goddess, meditating--something I haven't done since my brief dabbling in yoga and tai chi six years ago. It was incredible. Afterwards, I felt completely refreshed, and I had this tingling energy all over. Both our tour guide and one of my professors came up to me after and asked if I meditated regularly. ??? Apparently, I must have been doing something right. :)

When we got back to the hotel, I tried to make a few phone calls at the STD stand (no joke, that's what their phones are called), but the reception was so shitty, it was hardly worth it. The phone was in this sketchy store in a back alley, but it was quieter than the phone carts that are out on the street--the horns are constantly honking. Hopefully I'll be able to find a better phone from which to call later.

At dinner, I had a glass of Indian Sauvignon Blanc, and, to tell the truth, it was pretty decent--nice and tart, not too dry. I was so happy to have some wine! I guess it's kind of a comfort food...

5.23.2008

INDIA, 5.23.08

5.23.08

For the past 24 hours, I have had "This Time Tomorrow," by the Kinks, playing over and over in my mind. Now it really is this time, tomorrow, that I will be checking in at the MSP airport, embarking on another crazy adventure. I have a tendency to get myself into situations like this without fully realizing what I've gotten myself into. (So far, fortunately, it has worked out.) I can't really say why I'm going. The day before leaving for Christmas break, I saw a poster advertising this class, thought, "Darn it, Kelsye, you'll probably never go to India otherwise," and went to the Global Studies office to pick up an app. Now here am I, five months later, with this romanticized vision of a far-off land: colorful silks, spicy food, simple lives, the Beatles chilling in an ashram, Buddha, enlightenment, and, yes, tele-operators who speak English better than me.

I am not nervous. Far from it, really. I thought I would be afraid of missing people, of missing familiarity and comfort--not so much, though. Maybe that will change... As of right now, I just want to get on that plane and leave. Go. Get away. I've been packed and ready to go since Tuesday, when I came back to the Twin Cities, and since then, it's been a long few days of walking, reading, writing, and thinking. Lots of thinking. And, while I'm grateful for this time to be alone and reflect before going to India, I'm just want to hurry up and go now. It's a strange feeling somewhere between independence and loneliness. For example, I am perfectly capable of getting to the airport on my own. I've done it umpteen times. This time, though, it's a little peculiar not having anyone to kiss goodbye. But, alas, so it goes.

Peace out~ if all goes as planned, the next time I write, I'll finally be there (and probably wanting to be back here--funny how that works...). Love to all, ~kg

5.20.2008

INDIA, 5.20.08

5.20.08
St. Paul, MN

In four days, I will be on one of the world's longest non-stop flights, half way around the world from Chicago to New Delhi. I am traveling to India for three weeks with 19 other students and 2 professors for a class called "The Global Search for Justice," one of the core requirements at St. Kate's. The title of this course is "Spiritual Voices of Dissent," so we will be studying Gandhi, the Dalai Lama, Tibet, Mother Theresa, religious pluralism, and various other enlightening issues. In addition to Delhi, we will be visiting Dharmasala (where the Lama kicks it), Kausani (a tiny village I had trouble finding on Google...), and Agra (where the Taj Mahal is).

So far, most everyone has seemed to have some sort of advice or request for me while I'm gone: "Take a ride around Old Delhi in a rickshaw," "Don't get malaria," "Say Hello to the Dalai Lama for me," etc. My favorite piece of advice came from my sister's best friend, Brian: "Don't' get lost. There are a lot of people in India. It's purple on the population map, you know."

I flew back to St. Paul this morning after kissing the fam adieu. Mum didn't even get teary-eyed. I guess she is finally growing up. I took the bus back to St. Kate's, checked back in to my old room, now with bare walls, empty cupboards, and no more roommates, and started writing my Gandhi reflection paper that was due at our class meeting later this evening. For lunch, Katie and I went to our favorite restaurant, Shiish, where we eat nearly once a week. I'm afraid I'm going to go through withdrawal over the summer.

This evening, I had my first of two pre-classes in preparation for our departure. We each received a monstrous binder of readings for our trip. This, in addition to the 4 books we supposed to read, is rather daunting. I just hope I don't end up missing everything else on our trip because my head is stuck in some book. Even after tonight, though, I'm not entirely sure what to expect. I know it will be completely abberant from anything I've ever experienced. Nonetheless, I'm feeling fairly well prepared. I finally received my visa, I've been poked in the arm with various vaccines (and have the band-aid tan to prove it), I packed some TP, per my father's suggestion, and my suitcase closes easily without having to sit on it. I guess I won't really know, though, until I get off that plane in New Delhi...

5.15.2008

FRANCE, a visual journey

Our Appartment in Bormes
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Une Rue, Haute de Cagnes Sur Mer
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Avignon at Dusk
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Le Palais des Papes
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Le Pont d'Avignon
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Le Pont d'Avignon sur le Rhone
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Avignon: The Painted City
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Horses in Avignon!? What the frug!
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The Swiss Alps from Afar
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Les Champs de Lavande en Provence (Lavander)
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Le Pont du Gard
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A Roman Ampitheatre
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My Future Jag...